Memphis Barbeque
22.05.12
Pork rules, but it's a sorry kingdom
By Tom Sietsema
Wednesday, Dec. 28, 2011
On paper, the upstart Memphis Barbeque touches all the bases.
Co-owner Chris George, a former general manager of the Occidental downtown, grew up in Memphis. The restaurateur lured Redrick Rayborn, a veteran of the popular Corky's from back home, to be his pit master in Crystal City. Elvis is part of the recipe for the 162-seat spread.
"Memphis is known for two things," says George, whose father, William, is his business partner. "Great barbecue and the blues."
Alas, Tennessee isn't what leaps to mind when I'm wiping my hands at Memphis Barbeque, which starts swell with a smile at the door and piping-hot hush puppies at the table but rather quickly devolves into my singing the blues.
One of the hallmarks of Memphis 'cue: "Pork is king," says Chris George. Sure enough, the meat finds its way into messy egg rolls, one of the better sandwiches (pulled pork) on the menu, and baby back ribs. The latter pick up a nice fragrance from their time over burning hickory, but their thick glaze emphasizes sugar and smoke over tang.
Source: Washington Post
